September 2009 Archives

The Culture of Science, Part I

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I recently finished reading two "popular science" books. That is, books about science directed at a lay audience. Both were very challenging reads, and the two had some significant elements in common. I hope explore this connection in a multi-part review.

The first book is "Good Calories, Bad Calories" by Gary Taubes. Taubes, a journalist who specializes in science, has been writing about diet issues for years. The first most notable example was his 1998 article for the journal Science, "The (Political) Science of Salt" (get a college friend to help you with fulltext access...). This article was a historical analysis of the scientific research that built the dogma that salt causes hypertension in otherwise healthy people. Taubes' conclusion was that the scientific literature itself was not really enough to substantiate the supposed connection. This led him to the hypothesis that confirmation bias on the part of doctors and public health advocates was skewing the conventional wisdom.

The second big article in Taubes' timeline was his 2002 cover story for the New York Times Magazine, "What if It's All Been a Big Fat Lie?". It was a similar historical look into the scientific literature that formed the bedrock of the dietary fat/cholesterol/heart disease triumvirate, which is now the unquestionable basis of all dietary recommendations in the US. Once again, Taubes found a discrepancy between the actual conclusions of the body of scientific literature, and the vehemence with which doctors and public health advocates insist that dietary fat leads to certain death.

After the stormy reception of both these articles, Taubes embarked upon a book-length exhaustive unraveling of the dietary fat/heart disease story. The resulting book, "Good Calories, Bad Calories," (GCBC, for brevity's sake) is a historical, statistical, anthropological and physiological treatise, ending with over 100 pages devoted to citations and footnotes. It's dense, technical and vitriolic -- and it will blow the top of your head right off.

It's worth reading Taubes' Times Magazine article for a summary of GCBC's findings. It's hard to encapsulate such a tome, particularly one whose burden of proof is particularly high. It's hard enough to convince a neutral party; Taubes first has to show that the past 60 years' worth of common knowledge is wrong, and then has to build a case for a completely different understanding of diet and health.

People familiar with the Atkins diet won't be surprised by his conclusions: consumption of sugars and starches causes the hormones which regulate fat-storage to go haywire. Normally, fat tissue dynamically releases caloric energy to meet minute-to-minute metabolic needs; excess carbohydrate, and the resulting disruption of insulin, prevents fat from being used, resulting in both obesity and other endocrine-based health problems. While the concept of obesity as "Metabolic Syndrome" is not new, GCBC is indispensable in its own right because it cites recent research which Atkins, writing in the 1960's, could not yet have at his disposal. Atkins wrote from the standpoint of creating an effective weight loss plan (by which he himself lived); Taubes is making the physiological case for why such a diet makes sense. This explanation is well-organized and convincing, but it isn't what makes GCBC so inflammatory, or important.

The value of GCBC is its critique of the culture of science, that is, the culture of scientists. The low-fat diet, Taubes argues, did not become law because scientists impartially followed the direction of the literature. Rather, cliques, warring personalities, paternalism and political favoritism allowed one faction of the medical & scientific community to effectively silence another. History, and public health recommendations, were written by the winners. And, as with any institutionalized orthodoxy, dissent makes you not only a heretic yourself but a threat to those around you. Get the doctrine wrong and you damn your flock to hell; challenge the health wisdom and you doom your patients to die.

The modern conceit of science is that it exists independently of society. This could only be true if science were undertaken by machines. But because science is done by human beings, it loses its transcendence. People, scientists included, have agendas and grudges. Lack of self-awareness causes scientists to confuse their personal beliefs with the conclusions of their research. The second book on the docket, "Why I Am Not A Scientist", by Jonathan Marks, delves deeply into the social consequences of this problem.

End of Part I


Magic Pencils

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This weekend I accomplished my mission: buying the best pencils in the whole wide world.

I mostly use graphite pencils, Mirado Black Warriors, to be precise. Mirados have a special kind of graphite/wax composite lead. The wax makes the graphite a bit smoother and less smudgy. I like 2Bs for a really dark line.

Occasionally I use Prismacolors. These are the high-rent colored pencils. They are wax-based, with a dense pigment concentration and make for very dark lines. There are several problems with them, however. Because of the waxy binder, the lines have a reflective sheen that can be really distracting. The waxiness also makes them a bit resistant to releasing pigment to the page without a pretty deliberate exercise of force. Finally, they are almost completely uneraseable. I have used them on occasion and have always been frustrated. In 90% of situations, the eraseable cousin (Colerase, also very waxy) does the same job in a more forgiving fashion.

A few weeks ago I read a scanned article from an old illustration magazine. It was a step-by-step explanation of Peter de Seve's process. In the article he alludes to:

This soft, brownish pencil that creates tapered lines is one secret I don't want to cough up. There aren't many things; mostly I'm pretty open, but it took me ages to find this pencil.
Secret pencils. de Seve is my most favorite artist ever. Seeing one of his New Yorker covers when I was 11 years old made me know I had to draw; it was my destiny. Now I knew I had to find this pencil and try it for myself. A blog I came across suggested that they were Derwent Drawing pencils (not Sketching). Comparison with the pencil in de Seve's hand (round, varnished wood barrel), and this guess probably checks out.

I can understand why someone would say it took them years to find this pencil. It is really like nothing else. The best description I can come up with is that it's like drawing with an eyebrow pencil. It's a very fine-grained dry colored pigment. It doesn't appear to have a wax binder. It is completely matte on the paper and requires almost no force to make a dark line. However, unlike soft graphite, it doesn't smudge particularly easily. It erases just enough.
zebra.jpg



White Food, Brown Food

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I'm sick of the abuse of the word "simple" in the world of cooking. I don't care whether the food is simple or complicated, as long as it's good. I have a theory that "simple" became fetishized because it neutralizes the intimidation of people who have never cooked something before. It reassures them that they're not doing anything too challenging. "Simple" also has a kind of rustic romanticism that appeals to the more bourgeois gourmet crowd.

I call the cuisines of these two demographics White Food and Brown Food.

White Food means white bread, white meat chicken, American cheese, Sara Lee cake, and tuna casserole. Occasionally it means shredded coconut and marshmallow Peeps. It is a highly traditional American cuisine and I have nothing against it except for the fact that it's bland and often too sweet for my tastes. White Food recipes are plentiful in women's magazines like Family Circle.

Brown Food is the stuff of New York Times Magazine photo shoots -- root vegetables still covered in an appetizing layer of compost, alongside a flayed rabbit, strewn about with truffles.  The whole mess sits precariously on the edge of a rough-hewn wooden table, ready to be butterflied, trussed, & stewed in rooster blood.  It's all terribly Continental.

Despite the production values, though, somehow I doubt that the Times' readership is sincerely fond of organ meats.  Sophisticated, well-traveled Manhattanites don't race home from the office to grate celeriac, or set their husbands to the task of boiling and plucking the evening's hens.  Instead, they head out to restaurants where they will be underfed, overcharged and verbally abused.  White Food may be a disappointing reality, but Brown Food is only a fantasy.

Maybe I have more in common with Heartlanders just by making something, anything.  Is it better to look at pretty food, or to actually cook ugly food?

Their Clothes are Different from Our Clothes!

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Someone nicely summed up the way I feel about People of Wal-Mart (go find the link yourself, I don't want to give them the traffic):
This photo is from the latest user-submitted photo blog to go viral, "People of Walmart [sic]." The caption there says, "I have to assume that this guy, in a fit of rage after a monster truck rally or tractor pull, ripped off his sleeves and then went to Wal-Mart to get a few cases of beer to enjoy on the couch on his front porch."

Can you count the classist stereotypes in that sentence? (I came up with six.)
The whole blog entry is here: http://stuffwhitepeopledo.blogspot.com/2009/09/make-classist-web-sites.html

It would be one thing if the people making fun of "Wal-Mart People" were pure, honest, amoral decadents like Oscar Wilde. He had no pretense of moral superiority over anyone. But there's a disturbing overlap between people who call themselves politically liberal, and those who will snicker at what poor/lower-class people simply look like. It's too close to Colonialism reborn - a mandate, couched in "benevolence", to bring proper civilization to those hideous savages, the poor dears, who either need to be ruled (for their own good) or  converted. Don't be surprised if the natives fight you every step of the way.

Xylopholks 5-Borough Bodega Tour

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This makes me happy to call myself a member of the human race. (View in HD for best results).



www.xylopholks.com
They are currently embarking on a tour of India. They really should play at a Furry Con.
The xylophone virtuoso is Jonathan Singer. You can also hear some straight classical stuff on marimba at these links:

http://www.gititproductions.com/audio/jon_singer_a_minor.mp3
http://www.gititproductions.com/audio/jon_singer_d_minor.mp3
http://www.gititproductions.com/audio/jon_singer_f_major.mp3
http://www.gititproductions.com/audio/jon_singer_doctor_gradus.mp3






C_W_Peale_-_The_Artist_in_His_Museum.jpg

Charles Wilson Peale - The Artist in His Museum 1822.

The following is a transcription of a flyer, printed in the early 19th century. The skeleton of a mastodon was unearthed and preserved in the private museum of Charles Wilson Peale, a painter who is most famous for his portraits of George Washington.

(An interesting side note - Peale was a dentist as well. He crafted a dental prosthesis for Washington, for the express purpose of keeping his mouth in an attractive position during the long sitting times for the portraits. Washington supposedly preferred Peale's denture over many others which he had tried. One of the reason Washington looks so frowny in most other portraits is that his cheeks were sunken in from having lost so many teeth, and his dentures weren't great.)


Skeleton of the Mammoth 
IS NOW TO BE SEEN
At the Museum, in a separate Room
FOR ADMITTANCE TO WHICH, 50 CENTS; TO THE MUSEUM,
AS USUAL, 25 CENTS

Of this animal, it is said the following is a Tradition, as delivered in the very terms of a Sbawanee Indian:

TEN THOUSAND MOONS AGO, when nought but gloomy forests covered this land of the sleeping Sun, long before the pale men, with thunder and fire at their command, rushed on the wings of the wind to run this garden of nature...when nought but the untamed wanderers of the woods, and men as unrestrained as they, were lords of the soil...a race of animals were in being, huge as the frowning Precipice, cruel as the bloody Panther, swift as the descending Eagle, and terrible as the Angel of Night. The Pines crashed beneath their feet; and the Lake shrunk when they slaked their thirst; the forceful Javelin in vain was hurled, and the barbed arrow fell harmless from their side. Forests were laid waste at a meal, the groans of expiring Animals were every where heard; and whole Villages inhabited by men, were destroyed in a moment. The cry of universal distress extended even to the region of Peace in the West, and the Good Spirit interposed to save the unhappy. The forked Lightening gleamed all around, and the loudest Thunder rocked the Globe. The Bolts of Heaven were hurled upon the cruel Destroyers, and the mountains echoed with the bellowing of death. All were killed except one male, the fiercest of the race, and him even the artillery of the skies assailed in vain. He ascended the bluest summit which shades the source of the Monogahela, and roaring aloud, bid defiance to every vengeance. The red Lightening scorched the lofty firs, and rived the knotty oaks, but only glanced upon the enraged Monster. At length, maddened with fury, he leaped over the waves of the west at a bound, and this moment reigns the uncontrolled Monarch of the Wilderness in despite of even Omnipotence itself.

CSPI vs. Quorn

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Tastes like chicken - not Maker of Yummy Vat-Grown Fungus Sued Over "Dangerous Reactions"

Above, an article on Consumerist.com about a pending lawsuit by watchdog group Center for Science in the Public Interest (CSPI), against the manufacturers of a faux-meat product called Quorn.

CSPI exists for only one reason: to tell people not to eat things. And my, how many things! Instead of listing the foods which CSPI thinks are bad (which would take days), it should just be noted that CSPI essentially urges a low-fat, low-salt, vegetarian diet (with some fish), and no alcohol consumption. They also encourage taxing all foods & beverages which fall outside of this diet.

The curious thing about CSPI is the religious fervor with which they try to demonize enemy foods. They use the most melodramatic language possible to suggest that eating "bad" foods -- even occasionally -- will kill you. It's like fundamentalist nutrition. CSPI also relies heavily on lawsuits and press releases to call attention to the "bad" food of the week.

Their position on Quorn is similar to the war they waged against Olestra back in the 1990s. When Olestra (an uncanny calorie-free fat substitute) was originally introduced, CSPI was largely responsible for the level of panic about the additive's possible side effects. Soon enough, all of pop culture was completely convinced that Olestra gave everyone...well, you know the story. The problem is that the gastrointestinal effects of Olestra were greatly exaggerated. To get sick from eating it, you would have to eat a huge amount in a very short period of time. CSPI had a problem with Olestra simply because it was man-made, new and different. (I also suspect that they felt confounded by the notion that people would be able to eat potato chips with fewer calories and therefore less guilt). In the end, they got what they wanted - everyone was afraid of Olestra, and the product failed on the market.

(By the way -- you can still buy Olestra potato chips at the supermarket, and the FDA took off the warning label a few years ago. Turns out it wasn't really justified.)

A similar situation is happening right now with Quorn. Quorn has been available in Europe and the UK for about 30 years. It has only recently been introduced in the US. CSPI has been doing its damnedest for almost 10 years to make people hate and fear Quorn:

CSPI's Quorn Page

It's pretty low, for a group that uses the word "science" in its name, to exploit people's fears and base reactions to things. It's also extremely immature. First of all, CSPI never misses an opportunity to point out that Quorn is made from a fungus, as though fungus is somehow inherently bad. They also like pointing out that the Latin name of the fungus includes the word "venomous", which is extremely misleading, because the species includes a variety of strains, some of which are not poisonous at all. This is like the authorities of 16th-century Europe who warned people that tomatoes were poisonous, because they are in the same family as deadly nightshade.

Second, the photo they use calls attention to the fact that Quorn can be made into various shapes and textures. Well, so can textured vegetable protein, another non-meat protein which is now ubiquitous in vegetarian products like fake sausages, fake chicken, fake bacon and fake turkey. I don't really like the texture of TVP products, so I doubt I would like Quorn, but it seems disingenuous to demonize one and not the other.

The "Medical Evidence" section of their Quorn site is pretty laughable. It's got one unpublished study, several peer-reviewed studies which did NOT find a strong adverse effect of Quorn, and several letters which CSPI's executive director sent to journals stating his own opinions. The few corroborative pieces of evidence are articles about a handful individuals who have allergies to Quorn - certainly not enough to justify a huge scare campaign.

The brunt of CSPI's case against Quorn is their database of customer complaints -- complaints which they solicited. As they report, "Since 2002, more than 1,400 British and American consumers have filed adverse reaction reports on a website maintained by CSPI, quorncomplaints.org."

7-8 years, 1,400 complaints. (They say "more than", but it's probably between 1,400 and 1,500, or else they would have said "more than 1,500"). That averages out to about 200 or so per year. Quorn's manufacturer reports that in that timespan, 40 million servings of Quorn have been sold in the US, and something like 500,000 servings are consumed PER DAY in the UK. It would be one thing if CSPI wanted to play the cigarette card and say that Quorn will eventually kill us all, but from what is actually happening right now, I don't think their ire is justified.

The fact of the matter is that CSPI isn't anything more than a cult of personality for its Executive Director, Michael Jacobson. I have never seen another human face connected with CSPI. He makes all their public statements and press conferences. Whenever an article mentions CSPI, only he is ever quoted. Everything he eats is OK, and everything he doesn't eat must be banished.

Sketch to Painting - "Now Serving 12"

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sm_bear_fish.jpg



fishbear.jpg

Top: the original sketch
Bottom: the final illustration
(click to open full-size)

When I started on the watercolor painting, I decided to change the bear's mood. Instead of being enraged and feral, I thought it would be funnier if he were eager and excited at the prospect of being next, and at the same time completely oblivious to the terror he is instilling. In general, I prefer to make animals innocent and slightly dumb. Bears are very curious animals and they aren't vicious except to defend themselves. The expression I ended up with, I think captures his personality a bit better. In the sketch, he has a mindless rage, but in the final piece, I think his eyes communicate the concept that he is thinking in his tiny brain about fish.

The original sketch was done without much thought. Just moving the pencil around and seeing what happened. For the painting, I went back and drew with more formal construction and composition. I wanted to get the proportions and coloring correct, as well as get the perspective a bit better. The bear in the sketch is just "a bear", as opposed to the specific species in the final painting. I used references. Grizzlies have a very distinctive dish-shaped face and long piglike snout. They also have a more yellowish color than other bears.

Since the grizzly palette is pretty much a fixed commodity, the background colors had to play off the foreground. I knew it would have to be less saturated and more washed out to help the sense of depth. However, I also wanted certain colors to pop out, like the reds of the ticket dispenser, the tuna belly and the salmon filets.

I tried to put more thought into the composition of the final piece. The fish counter guys in the sketch don't have any relationship to each other. In the final, the poses accomplish two things: they give more interest because they are communicating with each other. They also bring the eye back to the bear through the direction of their eyes. Ultimately you have a triangle of interest, with the "now serving" box at the top, the ticket dispenser on the bottom, and the bear's face on the left. Pretty much everything you need to know is contained within that triangle. It also means that the area with maximum detail is centered around that triangle. I thought about putting more elements into the background to the left and above the bear (like ceiling lights and other grocery store shelves), but I decided not too so as not to compete with the area of interest.

Ultimately I would have preferred to have left myself enough space to fill the display case with more fish. Instead I cheated with the signs.

About this Archive

This page is an archive of entries from September 2009 listed from newest to oldest.

October 2009 is the next archive.

common repository for drawings, recipes and rants. zoepiel.com

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